Khajuraho, Ancient City of Erotic Temples

Varanasi may be the present City of Shiva (Shivpuri), but Khajuraho was also once known as Shivpuri, the city that celebrated the marriage of Shiva, goddess of creative and destructive energy, to Parvati as depicted by intricately carved erotic temples now dedicated as a World Heritage site. India is an ancient civilization resplendent with many myths and the birthplace of many religions that have been transported across the world. It’s a fascinating country filled with unending stories.

In Khajuraho, these temples were discovered in a dense jungle by a British engineer in 1819 and upon excavation and research; it was revealed that the creators of these remarkable temples were the legacy of the Chandella dynasty of Rajput origin during the 10th and 11th centuries.

Although the temples are renowned for the eroticism of its sculptures, there are many other sculptural scenes depicting Buddhism, Jainism, sun worship and animistic cults. In fact, the best time to visit these temples is at sunrise and sunset which magnifies a soft, reddish hue of light bathe the sculpted figures and friezes. It’s recommended to take some time and look carefully at the carvings of the marriage processions, domestic scenes of the deities, along with musicians and dancers celebrating life.

According to Hindu legend, in order to reach the celestial realm or nirvana, or the highest spiritual experience, it is done through utilizing all the senses during lovemaking physically, mentally and spiritually. At these temples, one witnesses Kama, the pursuit of pleasure, by the union of the divine Shiva and Parvati illustrating the importance of the creation of life. The pursuit of pleasure to seek deliverance was considered a legitimate aim then and now.

Perhaps the overarching message of this visit is quite simple: Make love not war!

Varanasi, India

From the Buddha trail to Varanasi, the holiest city in India for the Hindus; a trip not for the faint of heart to say the least. I was extremely fortunate to have a Brahman priest as my government approved local guide who also happens to be the spiritual guru for Goldie Hawn, Heidi Klum and Seal. Dr. Shailesh Tripathi introduced me to Varanasi not as a city of beauty but to feel it with all five senses. With an open-mind, I explored this ancient living city as old as Babylon.

In Varanasi, life flows around the Ganga (Ganges) River physically and spiritually. The Hindus try to make a pilgrimage to this river at least once in their lifetime to purify their spirits either by bathing in the waters or sprinkling a few droplets of water on the head while chanting a prayer. The Brahman priest did this for me while a boatman rowed an old, wooden boat down the river. According to this ritual, the waters clear the karma of the past and present so one is prepared for death and rebirth into a better life. Although I'm not a Hindu, Indians are open-minded and say it can apply to anyone of any faith and even those who are agnostic. Hopefully, from now on my life will be better and I'm most grateful to have participated in this ancient practice of the Hindu religion.

As mentioned earlier, this city is primarily for Hindu pilgrims. I would suggest sticking to boat rides at sunrise and sunset to experience the Brahman priests, gurus, yogis welcoming the day with music and prayer beneath the high walls of the maharajas' old, riverside palaces, and also the notice the numerous ghats where the the faithful Hindus bathe and pray (see photo). And, every evening at sunset, watch the beautiful, Hindu ceremony Ganga Arati dedicated to the river and performed by priests with music, incense, chanting and fire.

Despite the magic and mystery behind these Hindu rituals, as a Westerner and a non-Hindu pilgrim, I would avoid walking through the narrow alleys in the heart of the city directly behind the ghats that are marked by smelly, cow dung everywhere as the cow is considered holy. If you do decide to venture dwon these filthy streets off the beaten path, then watch your step! Again, this is not an easy city to visit and I would recommend visiting the Golden Triangle (Delhi, Agra, Jaipur) first, but once you feel or think you're ready for your own spiritual pilgrimage, then Varanasi may become one of the most memorable places you've ever visited during your worldwide travels.

Sarnath, India

This is Part 1 of a three series blog about my recent trip to India that commences in Sarnath about 6 miles north of central Varanasi. After leaving Varanasi known as the holiest city for Hindus which I'll recount in another story, my spiritual journey led me to Sarnath. Sarnath is where the Lord Buddha gave his first sermon to his disciples and King Ashoka 300 B.C. built a Dhammekha Stupa in Deer Park honoring this sermon.

As fate would have it, here I am standing with Burmese monks in front of the stupa (please see photo below) that will make my Burmese friends in New York happy, one who also became a lay monk but leads a civilian life with his lovely family.

While Varanasi jolted my six senses and turned my world upside down in a good way, Sarnath calmed my spirit like a cool, ocean breeze kissing my face despite my being in the middle of a dry, dusty desert like atmosphere; even though Deer Park is spotted with trees and preserved like a World Heritage site.

My take away from Buddhism is about walking the middle path, acting with loving kindness and enacting tolerance. In short, let's be respectful of religious diversity as all faiths lead to the same destination.